Many of my new curly hair clients are surprised that I don’t shampoo their hair before I cut it. “Are you going to cut it dry?” they ask, surprised when I don’t take them immediately to the shampoo bowl. “Yes, I always cut curly hair dry,” I tell them, and then I explain why. There are five main reasons why I believe cutting curly hair when it is dry is better than cutting it wet. Spring Factor – Every curl has a different spring factor. Spring factor is how much a curl will spring back after it is pulled out straight. For 2A-2B loosely wavy curls, the spring factor may be as little as half an inch. For 2C Botticelli curls, the spring factor is usually between 1-4 inches. For 3A-3C corkscrew curls, the spring factor is between 3-6 inches. Super curly 4A-4C can spring back 7-10 inches or more depending on their length. 4C curls have the greatest spring factor and will often spring back to 10-20% of their length when pulled out straight. When curly hair is cut wet, the stylist usually pulls the hair out from the head and cuts with tension. When hair is cut like this, it is virtually impossible to know where the hair will spring back to when it is dry. So the spring factor of curly hair is the number one reason to cut it dry. Knowing where the curls lie – When shaping the haircut, it is vital for the stylist to know where the curls will lie when they are in their natural dry state, and common sense will tell you that this can only be determined by seeing the curls when they are dry. This is particularly important when framing the face, since good hair design is about presenting the most attractive view of your face. A talented stylist will analyze your facial features and decide exactly where they want your curls to fall. This is usually the most important part of the haircut and it can only be done well when curls are dry and falling in their natural shape. Hair density – Judging hair density, especially around the perimeter of a haircut is a vital part of creating a beautiful shape. When hair is wet, it clumps together making density much harder to judge. It is far easier to judge hair density when it is dry. This allows the stylist to know where on the head they can begin elevating the hair to create the desired shape which will make your face look most attractive. Seeing the shape evolve as the haircut proceeds – When curly hair is cut dry, it is easier to see the shape of the haircut evolve throughout the haircut. This allows the stylist to make adjustments to the haircut throughout the process. I analyze the shape of the haircut throughout the entire cutting process and often make adjustments that I wouldn’t have seen if I was cutting the hair when it was wet. Finishing touches – Curly hair is a little different every day. This is why it is critical to make final adjustments to the haircut after the hair has been washed, conditioned and styled. At the end of the haircut, I ask my clients to stand in front of me so I can see their hair from every direction. I ask them to flip their head upside down and side to side and observe the curls from every angle, making any necessary adjustments to complete the haircut and give them the best possible look for their unique face shape.
